This year we did a self drive around Scotland. If you would like help planning a trip like this, send me an email.
Days 1-3 were spent in Edinburgh. We visited the Royal Mile, Greyfrier Bobby, Edinburgh Castle, Palace of Holyrood House and Abby, and had a great visit with our Scottish friends that we hadn't seen in a few years.
Greyfriars Bobby was a Skye Terrier or Dandie Dinmont Terrier who became known in 19th-century Edinburgh for reportedly spending 14 years guarding the grave of his owner until his own death.
Edinburgh Castle is one of the oldest fortified places in Europe. With a long rich history as a royal residence, military garrison, prison and fortress, it is alive with many exciting tales. When you climb Castle Hill, you will walk in the footsteps of soldiers, kings and queens – and even the odd pirate or two. Though parts of it remain in military use, the castle is now a world-famous visitor attraction. It’s also an iconic part of the Old and New Towns of Edinburgh World Heritage Site.
Palace of Holyroodhouse - The Official Residence of the British Monarch in Scotland
As it is still a Royal Residence we were unable to take pictures indoor.
The Palace of Holyroodhouse, commonly referred to as Holyrood Palace, is the official residence of the British monarch in Scotland. Located at the end of Edinburgh's Royal Mile, it stands against the dramatic backdrop of Arthur’s Seat, a famous hill in the Scottish capital. The palace has long been a focal point of Scottish history, royal ceremonies, and state occasions.
The origins of Holyroodhouse trace back to the early 12th century, when David I of Scotland founded an Augustinian abbey on the site. The name “Holyrood” derives from “Holy Cross,” referencing a relic that the king was said to possess. The palace as it is known today began to take shape in the 16th century, when James IV constructed a residence adjacent to the abbey. Over the centuries, it has undergone several renovations and expansions, notably under James V and Charles II.
The palace has served as a royal residence for centuries. It was the home of Mary, Queen of Scots, during some of the most dramatic episodes of her reign—including the murder of her secretary, David Rizzio, which took place within the palace walls. Today, the monarch stays at Holyroodhouse during official visits to Scotland, particularly during “Holyrood Week” each summer, when ceremonial events and garden parties are held.
As always we found the oldest pubs to eat and drink in.
On Day 4 we picked up our rental car and drove to Aberdeen with stops at Dunfermline Abby and Palace, Arbroath Abby and of course a stop for lunch at Jiggers Inn at St Andrews Golf Course.
The origins of Dunfermline Abbey date back to the 11th century, when it was founded by Queen Margaret (who became St Margaret after her death), wife of King Malcolm III of Scotland. Over the centuries, the abbey became a royal mausoleum and the burial place of many Scottish kings and queens, including King Robert the Bruce. Its connection to the monarchy made it one of the most prestigious abbeys in medieval Scotland.
As both my husband and I are golfers we had to stop at Jiggers Inn at St Andrews for Lunch
And our last stop of the Day was Arbroath Abby
The abbey was founded in 1178 by King William I of Scotland, also known as William the Lion. It was established as a tribute to Thomas Becket, the Archbishop of Canterbury who was martyred in 1170. The abbey was initially home to Tironensian monks, a Benedictine order, and quickly became one of the wealthiest and most influential religious institutions in Scotland.
Perhaps the most famous event in the abbey’s history is the signing of the Declaration of Arbroath in 1320. This document was a letter sent to Pope John XXII by Scottish nobles, asserting Scotland’s independence from England and pleading for the recognition of Robert the Bruce as king. The declaration remains a powerful symbol of Scottish identity and freedom.
On day 5 we drove to Old Deer and went to the ruined abby, the farming museum and church. My husband's family was from the area, his great great great grandfather was a blacksmith in Old Deer, and his great great uncle designed the Church.
The Farming museum was very interesting. It also has a beautiful park to walk through that connects to the Church.
We stopped at the beach on our way back to Aberdeen and then had dinner at Ma Murray's the oldest pub in Aberdeen.
On Day 6 we Drove from Aberdeen to Thurso with a stop at Cullodon.
The Battle of Culloden, fought on April 16, 1746, stands as one of the most significant and tragic events in Scottish and British history. It marked the dramatic end of the Jacobite Rising of 1745 and had lasting consequences for the Highlands of Scotland and the wider United Kingdom.
The Jacobite Risings were a series of rebellions aimed at restoring the House of Stuart to the British throne. The 1745 rising, led by Charles Edward Stuart—known as "Bonnie Prince Charlie"—sought to reclaim the throne for his father, James Francis Edward Stuart. The Jacobite army, composed mostly of Scottish Highlanders, initially experienced success, advancing as far south as Derby, England, before retreating to Scotland.
The final confrontation occurred on the bleak moorland of Culloden, near Inverness. The Jacobite forces, numbering around 5,000, faced the much larger and better-equipped government army of about 8,000 soldiers led by William Augustus, Duke of Cumberland. Poor weather, low morale, exhaustion, and unfavorable ground contributed to the Jacobites' disadvantage.
The battle was brief but brutal. Lasting less than an hour, it ended in a decisive victory for the government forces. The Jacobites suffered heavy casualties—estimates suggest that around 1,500 were killed or wounded, while government losses were minimal.
We spent 1 night in Thurso at a Manor House built in 1810.
On Day 7 we took the Ferry over to Mainland Orkney where we spent 3 fabulous nights.
We had a beautiful day for the crossing, and got a great view of the Old Man of Hoy.
Our first stop on Mainland Orkney was Skara Brae
Skara Brae is an incredibly significant and well-preserved Neolithic stone-built settlement located on the Bay of Skaill on the west coast of Mainland, the largest island in the Orkney archipelago of Scotland.
It is Europe's most complete Neolithic village, dating back to approximately 3180 BC to 2500 BC. This makes it older than both Stonehenge and the Great Pyramids of Giza.
Discovery: The village was hidden for millennia under a sand dune until a great storm in 1850 stripped away the earth and sand, revealing the ruins.
It originally consisted of about ten clustered houses, built using flagstones and set into mounds of prehistoric domestic waste (a "midden") for stability and insulation.
The preservation is extraordinary because the houses were filled with sand quickly after abandonment, protecting them.
Due to the lack of trees, the furniture was also constructed from stone and has survived, including stone hearths, beds, dressers, and storage boxes.
The settlement even included a primitive sewer system.
Inhabitants and Lifestyle:
The inhabitants were farmers, hunters, and fishermen who lived a sedentary lifestyle during the Neolithic period (New Stone Age).
They were makers of grooved ware pottery.
Their diet included farmed animals (sheep, cattle, pigs), grown crops (black oats, bere barley), hunted animals (red deer, boar), and food sourced from the ocean (fish, shellfish, seal meat).
After our exploration of Skara Brae, we went for a Whisky Tasting at Highland Park Distillery.
Day 8, since it was a beautiful day we decided to take a break and go golfing at Stromness Golf Club.
Day 9 was a busy day. We started at the Earl's Palace in Birsay, stopped at the Brough of Birsay, the Ring of Brodgar, the Standing Stones of Strenness, Maeshowe, The Earl's and Bishop's palaces in Kirkwell and St Magnus Cathedral.
The Earl's Palace in Birsay
One of the illegitimate sons of James V, Robert Stewart was a notoriously harsh earl, and the gun holes at ground level in every wall of the palace may suggest that he expected trouble.
The palace’s use was short-lived, however: built between 1569 and 1574, its story effectively ended with the overthrow of the Stewart earls in 1615. An inventory drawn up by Oliver Cromwell’s troops in 1653 suggests neglect had already set in, and by 1700 the palace was roofless and decaying.
The Brough of Birsay
You reach this very special tidal island by causeway to explore Pictish, Norse and medieval remains. Brooches, rings and dress pins found on the Brough of Birsay suggest that it was a Pictish power centre.
The Norse settled the island 200 years later, in the 9th century, but may have lived peacefully alongside the Picts. It’s still possible to make out the remnants of Norse houses, barns and even a sauna. Later, a small church and monastery were built on Birsay.
Only my husband went across, but came back in a hurry when he realised the tide was coming in.
The next stop was the Ring of Brodgar and then the Standing Stones of Stenness.
The Ring of Brodgar is a powerful symbol of the sophisticated society that flourished in Neolithic Orkney and The Standing Stones of Stenness are another incredibly important Neolithic monument.
Maeshowe is one of the most spectacular and well-preserved chambered tombs in all of Europe, offering a profound glimpse into Neolithic engineering and later history. It is a massive grass-covered mound (cairn) that encloses a sophisticated internal chamber built of huge, precisely cut sandstone slabs. It has a single, long passage leading into a central chamber with three side cells.In the 12th century, Norsemen (Vikings) broke into the mound, likely seeking treasure. They sheltered there for several nights during a blizzard and, while inside, they carved over 30 runic inscriptions onto the inner walls.
We were unable to take picture on the inside.
The Bishop's Palace in Kirkwell
The Bishop's Palace in Kirkwall, Orkney, is a 12th-century, ruined medieval hall house built at the same time as St. Magnus Cathedral, located across the street from it. Historically significant for being the residence of bishops in Norse Scotland, the palace was expanded into a larger complex with the addition of the Earl's Palace in the 17th century.
The view of St Magnus Cathedral from the top of the Bishop's Palace
The Earl's Palace
The palace was built after Patrick, 2nd Earl of Orkney, decided that the accommodation provided by the Bishop's Palace was inadequate for his needs. Lord Orkney is widely acknowledged to have been one of the most tyrannical noblemen in Scotland's history. He decided to extend the complex by building a new palace on the adjoining land. This was complicated by the fact he did not actually own this property. He quickly acquired it by fabricating charges of theft against the unfortunate owner, trying him and having him executed. Upon his imprisonment at Edinburgh in 1609, his bastard son Robert began a rebellion on his behalf and seized the palace, along with nearby St Magnus's Cathedral and Kirkwall Castle. An army led by the Earl of Caithness laid siege, and the Castle was destroyed. Lord Orkney and his son were later executed for treason.
St Magnus Cathedral
‘Light in the North’ was founded in 1137 by the Viking, Earl Rognvald, in honour of his uncle St Magnus who was martyred here in Orkney. The Cathedral belongs to the people of Orkney and its doors are open to all.
John Rae is considered one of the most successful 19th-century Arctic explorers due to his adoption of Indigenous survival methods, which allowed him to travel vast distances with minimal equipment by living off the land. He was born in the Orkney's, and worked for the Hudson's Bay Company in Canada. He did four expeditions between 1846 and 1854, charting nearly 1,800 miles of previously unexplored Arctic coastline. John Rae obtained the first credible information regarding the fate of Sir John Franklin's 1845 lost expedition.He met with local Inuit peoples in 1854, who provided him with relics and accounts that indicated the crew had perished and resorted to cannibalism.
His report on the alleged cannibalism was initially controversial and was dismissed by many in the British establishment. However, later scientific studies and bone evidence supported the information he received from the Inuit.
Day 10 we Left the Orkneys behind. Our first stop of the day was Carn Luath Broch. An Iron Age roundhouse ruin. Would have stood up to 45 feet high.
The 2nd stop of the day was the Pitish museum Tarbat Discovery Centre. The Tarbat Discovery Centre is on the grounds of the ancient church of St Colman, displaying works of art created in stone by the Picts more than 1,200 years ago.
The treasures, discovered during a 1990s archaeological dig, include fragments of majestic cross-slabs carved skilfully with elaborate geometric patterns, interwoven with magnificent animals and people. The Centre displays Pict and Early Medieval tools, artefacts and moulds used in the 8th century to create religious masterpieces, such as chalices and reliquaries in gold, silver, enamel and glass.
The last stop of the day was Urquhart Castle on the banks of Loch Ness.
Once one of Scotland’s largest castles, Urquhart saw great conflict during its 500 years as a medieval fortress. Control of the castle passed back and forth between the Scots and English during the Wars of Independence. The power struggles continued, as the Lords of the Isles regularly raided both castle and glen up until the 1500s.
The last of the government troops garrisoned here during the Jacobite Risings blew up the castle when they left. Urquhart’s iconic ruins remain, offering glimpses into medieval times and the lives of its noble residents.
On Day 11 we did a tour from Inverness that included the Jacobite Steam Train.
Day 12 was spent at Fort George.
Following the 1746 defeat at Culloden of Bonnie Prince Charlie, George II created the ultimate defence against further Jacobite unrest. The result, Fort George, is the mightiest artillery fortification in Britain, if not Europe.
Its garrison buildings, artillery defences bristling with cannon, and superb collection of arms - including bayoneted muskets, pikes, swords and ammunition pouches - provide a fascinating insight into 18th century military life.
During WWI The primary function of the Fort was to serve as a training and supply centre. This reserve battalion was crucial for training thousands of new recruits and also for receiving, equipping, and processing men returning to duty after injury, who would then be sent to the active battalions fighting overseas.
On Day 13 we drove from Inverness to the Isle of Skye. where we were spending 3 nights.
We didn't get as much done on Skye as we would have liked due to the cold wet blustery weather. However we did manage to get in a walk at the Fairy Glenn, Dunvegan Castle and shopping in the local artisan stores.
Described by some as a mini-Quiraing, this small and magical feature of the Island, dotted with gnarled rowan trees, was formed over 100,000 years ago by post-Glacier landslides, while years of erosion and the elements sculpted the Torridonian sandstone into unusual patterns of cone-shaped craggy hillocks, random boulders, tranquil lochans and even a basalt castle.
Dunvegan Castle has been the ancestral home and continuous stronghold of the Chiefs of Clan MacLeod for over 800 years and 30 generations, making it the oldest continuously inhabited castle in Scotland.The castle sits on a rock overlooking an inlet on Loch Dunvegan. It is a striking amalgamation of buildings from different periods, with the oldest parts dating back to the 13th and 14th centuries (including a keep and the Fairy Tower). Its current, mock-medieval exterior largely dates from remodels in the 19th century.The MacLeods of Dunvegan trace their lineage back to Leod Olafson, a son of Olaf the Black, the Norse King of the Isle of Man, in the 13th century. The clan has played a major role in Highland history, including raising troops for the Jacobite cause and supporting the Crown.
On Day 16 we drove to Stirling with a stop to visit some Coos.
Day 17 we spent in Stirling visiting the castle, beheading stone and Stirling bridge.
Stirling Castle is one of Scotland's largest, most important, and historically significant castles, often regarded as an iconic symbol of the nation's story. Perched dramatically atop a volcanic crag, it was a favoured royal residence of the Stewart monarchs and a crucial strategic stronghold guarding the route between the Scottish Lowlands and Highlands.
From the Castle we walked down...then hiked up to the beheading stone.
Next stop was Stirling Bridge.
Day 18 we went to the Wallace Monument, Doune Castle and Dunblane Cathedral.
The National Wallace Monument is a tower on the shoulder of the Abbey Craig, a hilltop overlooking Stirling in Scotland.You approach by foot (or shuttle bus) from the base of the crag on which it stands. On entry there are 246 steps to the final observation platform, with three exhibition rooms within the body of the tower. The foundation stone was laid in 1861, an the monument was completed in 1869.
Our next stop was Doune Castle. Doune Castle is one of the best-preserved medieval castles in Scotland, famous for both its rich history and its major role as a filming location.
The castle assumed its current, impressive form in the late 14th century, built by Robert Stewart, Duke of Albany. The Duke of Albany was the son of King Robert II and essentially ruled Scotland for three Scottish kings. It was designed as a formidable stronghold and a magnificent luxurious residence, showcasing the power and ambition of one of Scotland's most powerful medieval figures—often referred to as "Scotland's uncrowned king." Unlike many other castles, Doune's main strength and structure are concentrated in its massive, 95-foot-high keep-gatehouse. This section contains most of the principal domestic quarters.
In Pop Culture
Monty Python and the Holy Grail (1975) - Doune Castle served as almost every castle in the film! You'll recognise it as Camelot, the location of the wedding interrupted by Sir Lancelot, Castle Anthrax, and the French castle where King Arthur is insulted.
Outlander - It is instantly recognizable to fans as Castle Leoch, the ancestral home of the Clan MacKenzie.
Game of Thrones - The castle was used as the location for Winterfell in the pilot episode.
Outlaw King -Features as a location in the film about Robert the Bruce.
Last stop of the day was at Dunblane Cathedral,
The Tower: The most ancient surviving part is the lower half of the bell tower, which dates to the pre-Romanesque period of the 11th century. It was originally a free-standing structure before the rest of the cathedral was built around it. The upper part of the tower was added in the 15th century.
The Main Structure: The nave and choir mostly date from the 13th century and are a fine example of Scottish Gothic architecture, known for its refined and modest scale.
The Reformation and Restoration: After the Scottish Reformation in the 16th century, the magnificent nave was abandoned and became roofless, used only for burials. Only the choir remained in use as the parish church. A major restoration project, including the re-roofing of the nave, was carried out in the late 19th century by architect Robert Rowand Anderson, bringing the entire building back into use.
Day 19 was our last full day and we drove from Stirling back to Edinburgh. We stopped at the Bannockburn Memorial, Linlithgow Palace, The Kelpies, and Midhope Castle.
The Battle of Bannockburn June 23–24, 1314.
The Scottish army, led by King Robert the Bruce, faced the much larger English army, commanded by King Edward II. The battle was a crucial moment in the First War of Scottish Independence. King Robert the Bruce was fighting to legitimize his kingship and force the English to recognize Scotland's independent status. The English army was marching to relieve the English-held Stirling Castle.The Scots achieved a decisive victory. Robert the Bruce's forces, though outnumbered, used the terrain and the famous schiltrons (dense formations of spearmen) effectively to defeat the English heavy cavalry.
The name "Kelpies" comes from Scottish folklore, where a kelpie is a mythical, shape-shifting water spirit, often appearing as a powerful horse. These spirits were said to possess the strength and endurance of ten (or even 100) horses and were associated with lochs and rivers.
Linlithgow Palace is a magnificent, roofless ruin in Linlithgow, West Lothian, Scotland, renowned as a former principal residence of the Scottish monarchs.
The palace was a favorite "pleasure palace" and welcome rest stop for the Stewart dynasty, situated conveniently on the main route between Edinburgh Castle and Stirling Castle.
It served as a royal nursery and is the birthplace of two notable monarchs: James V (born 1512) and Mary, Queen of Scots (born 1542)
The building of the palace began in 1424, ordered by James I after a fire severely damaged the earlier residence. Subsequent monarchs, including James IV and James V, contributed to its development over two centuries, resulting in a superb Renaissance residence. The palace fell into decline after James VI inherited the English throne and moved the royal court to London in 1603, leading to the Union of the Crowns. The palace's grandeur ultimately ended in 1746 when a great fire, accidentally started by government troops quartered there while pursuing Bonnie Prince Charlie, swept through the building.
And our last stop was Midhope Castle
Midhope Castle is a stunning 15th-century tower house located in Abercorn, Scotland, on the Hopetoun Estate, just west of South Queensferry, near Edinburgh.
It is most famous for its role in the hit TV series Outlander, where it is used as the exterior filming location for Lallybroch (also known as Broch Tuarach), the ancestral home of Jamie Fraser.
The original tower house is believed to have been built in the 15th century. In the 16th century, the castle belonged to Alexander Drummond of Midhope, and a stone inscription from 1582 commemorates him and his wife, Marjory Bruce.
What you see today is a much-altered, five-storey, oblong tower house. It received a significant "facelift" in 1678, which included heightening and extending the east wing and adding a new doorway.